PAXSON —There's little doubt this is one of the greatest winters ever for outdoor activities. Warm? You bet; there have been far more days above zero than below — at least in Alaska's normally frigid Interior. We had a substantial early dump of snow. That let us have a taste of the fun outdoor stuff. Then the snow conveniently melted so we could finish all of the necessary late fall projects.
The thaw gave time to complete the projects, plus we got a second chance to pick up all of the forgotten tools. Sure, there are a few places in Southcentral without much snow now, but other than the Kenai, most folks don't have to travel far to drive their snowmobile.
One of the best locations is the Alaska Range foothills. Whether one is headed south from Fairbanks, or north out of Anchorage, it isn't far to the Paxson area or Cantwell. Many people opt for Cantwell to access the Denali Highway and the great snow conditions. The relatively short run on good highway is attractive. Plus, there are some support services in Cantwell for travelers. Also, the Denali Highway has a bit of timber and is less exposed than the east end of the road out of Paxson.
The extra run time needed to reach the upper Copper River Basin may well be worth it. Just north of Paxson, near Summit Lake, is the location of Arctic Man, a premier spring snowmobile-and-ski event. Snow conditions at Summit are the best they've been in years with 3 feet of powder on the ground almost everywhere and minimal drifting. The brush is covered in most places and the base is solid.
Excellent ice fishing prospects
There has been enough cold weather to provide good lake ice too, except for inlets and outlets. The Paxson/Summit area has natural springs that never freeze, and these remain open. Overflow is minimal on the lakes. I made a run down both Paxson and Summit Lakes a couple days ago and couldn't find a wet spot on either.
Trout fishing on both lakes should be excellent, and ice fishermen have already poked a few holes in Paxson Lake. But Summit was clean. January is one of the best months for catching fish due to the late December spawning by whitefish. Many years, the cold of mid-winter keeps fishermen away, but when it's in the mid-teens and 20s, as is forecast, that's perfect. Fish during the mid-day light, especially 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., for lake trout. Sometimes bigger fish hit well at sunrise too. I have tried lights at night with almost no success.
Evening would be a good time to forsake the fishing pole for a ride on the Denali. The trail out the highway has great snow, with no pavement showing anywhere. The normally windblown Tangle Lakes area still has soft snow in most places. Past Tangle Lakes, the snow deepens. There is at least 3 feet on the ground in the Maclaren Valley and on to Alpine Creek.
Alpine Creek Lodge at Mile 68 of the Denali Highway has the only winter services. Maclaren Lodge at Mile 42 will re-open in February. There is a fair trail all of the way from Paxson to Cantwell. The Gin Gin 200 sled dog race begins Jan. 22. The traffic associated with the race will make a few more improvements to the Paxson end of the trail.
Outdoor enthusiasts need to be aware that there are no support services in Paxson. Meiers Lake Roadhouse, 15 miles south of the intersection, is the only lodge open between Delta Junction and Glennallen, so be prepared. There is a 17-mile connecting trail from Meiers Lake to the Denali Highway if you choose to park at Meiers.
Alaska's Department of Transportation has a big parking area cleared at the start of the Denali. A 20-foot snowmobile trailer can be easily be turned around without backing up. Weekends normally find a few anglers headed out to Swede Lake to fish and some snowmobiles riding out to the Amphitheater Mountains.
The Amphitheaters probably provide some of the better riding conditions in the state. These mountains that fringe the Denali along the Maclaren Summit are steep enough to challenge, yet pose minimal avalanche danger.
Wherever you choose to spend your weekend, the great weather we've been experiencing and the increasing daylight will make your experience a memorable one. Remember to use caution in the mountains and on the road. Be aware of the potential water hazards on the lakes. Read the hunting and fishing regs before you leave the house.
Promise your wife you'll make her that shelf she wants ... next weekend.
John Schandelmeier is a lifelong Alaskan who lives with his family near Paxson. He is a Bristol Bay commercial fisherman and two-time winner of the Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race.