A Cajun-flavored member of the Anchorage dining scene, Alligator Wharf sometimes flies under diners' radar because of its low key location and non-traditional hours.
The restaurant was originally conceived as Fire & Ice Cafe eight years ago by Sue and Sigel Shroy. Their daughter, Alyx, began cooking at the restaurant at 11 and was given executive control at 16. She changed its name to Alligator Wharf to better reflect the kitchen's theme.
The modest restaurant is situated in a strip mall on International Airport Road, where it shares a communal space with MetrOasis Hair School and Salon, also owned by the Shroys.
The cafe is littered with artwork and musical instruments. The wooden flooring and raised booths look as if they came straight from a wharf staged deep in the Louisiana bayou.
The tables incorporate glass displays of Mardi Gras knickknacks, French trinkets and thrift shop novelties. A corner of the room is reserved for live, local music, which is offered on a monthly basis.
With just seven entrees, the succinct menu represents a "stick to what you know" philosophy. There's Cajun jambalaya ($8) and gumbo ($8) as well as the French-inspired croque madame ($6).
The Shroy family is not, as one might expect, from Louisiana. But Alyx, now 19, is the first to admit her love for Louisiana's French-infused culture has afforded her an intimate understanding and appreciation for the food she serves.
"The food is homemade and prepared with lots of love, and I care about everything I'm serving to my customers."
On my first visit, the alligator ($15) piqued my interest and I decided to test the waters. Alyx orders the farmed alligator fillets online from Cajun Grocer. The dish took 20 minutes or so to make, which seemed reasonable for fresh-cooked cuisine.
The generous portion included seven pan-fried alligator filets, a helping of gumbo, a side of rice and a biscuit. I would liken the consistency of the palm-sized filets to a tough chicken, and the flavor to halibut. I'm a fan of tender, flaky seafood and rare meat, so my taste buds didn't relish the texture. However, the concoction of spices was tasty.
I also ordered the croque madame ($6), a traditional French ham sandwich smothered in melted, sharp white cheese and topped off with egg. The entire sandwich was baked in the oven, and I caught the tantalizing aroma from the kitchen before it arrived. The hearty sandwich was a delicious cross between breakfast and lunch -- or both, since it leaves plenty for leftovers.
On my next visit, the gumbalaya ($9) hybrid solved my conundrum between ordering jambalaya or gumbo. The supremely rich, dark combination offered plentiful chunks of sausage, shrimp and tomatoes combined with rice. Despite its soupy consistency, none of the elements were soggy and blended nicely together.
The ingredients all tasted fresh and the dish brought the heat with a variety of spices and herbs that added enough complexity to maintain interest. Some of the more prominent flavors in the mix were cilantro, cayenne pepper and garlic.
I ordered the red beans and rice ($7) as well. The entree was simple in formula, but proved to be my favorite. The savory dish was peppered with chunks of sausage and the beans are packed with the perfect amount of spicy aftertaste.
Overall, the restaurant does a stand-up job offering authentic, home-cooked Cajun cuisine to Alaskans well outside of Louisiana. If you're into Southern flavor, give this spot a try.
• Got a restaurant tip, a new menu, a favorite dish or a chef change? Send an e-mail to play@adn.com.
By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent