New Cauldron is a hidden constant in Anchorage's restaurant community: older, reliable, traditional and straight-to-the-point. Opened in 1977, the restaurant earned a reputation with classic American dishes.
When current owner Yong Bae took over in 1986, he moved it to the University Center mall. It's tucked away upstairs but has kept a steady flow of patrons with dishes tailored to please discriminating palates and wallet sizes.
The menu boasts plenty of salads and sandwiches to choose from, including the tropical chicken salad ($8.95) and the French dip sandwich ($7.95). They also serve healthy and hearty dishes like seafood spaghetti ($11.95) and a meatloaf ($7.95) advertised as 94 percent fat-free. Burgers are offered with lean ground beef and teriyaki dishes made with chicken ($6.95), beef ($8.95) or steak ($8.95) come with a low-salt, low-sugar sauce. I was particularly delighted to find avocado integrated into a range of menu items, including salads, wraps and as a side.
Upon entering the restaurant, I was greeted by an open dining area with colorful walls and comfortable, if not weathered, seating. The no-frills service is prompt and efficient. The elderly patrons in the restaurant were the majority.
I ordered an Alaska club sandwich ($10.95), which is heralded by Bae as the restaurant's most popular item. Deep-fried halibut, bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, mayonnaise and Swiss cheese are sandwiched between three thick-sliced pieces of bread. The textures range from toasted bread, perfectly crispy bacon and a lightly deep-fried coating giving way to flaky halibut. I was impressed by the palatable mix.
The avocado bowl ($6.95) didn't have the same impact. It offered a mash-up of rice, avocado, lettuce, tomatoes, roasted tofu, onion and bell peppers, all topped off with hot sauce. I was optimistic at the innovative combination, but the hot sauce had the flavor and density of a pasta sauce rather than a condiment, and it tasted a bit heavier than I'd prefer. However, the avocado, notorious for its short window of ripe opportunity, tasted perfectly fresh.
On my next visit, I chose from the extensive salad list. My chicken chef salad ($8.95) arrived topped with croutons, Swiss and American cheese, tomato, dried cranberries, olives, egg, and grilled chicken. The ingredients were fresh, but somewhat carelessly tossed together, and I was left with only one tomato slice and two thin slices of cheese. With salads dominating a majority of the menu, and a heftier price tag than some of my other selections, it left me a little underwhelmed.
The signature New Cauldron burger ($6.95) arrived with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and onions and my add-on choices of a half avocado ($1.95) and sautéed mushrooms (95 cents). The patty was slightly charred, reminiscent of overcooked but comforting summer barbecue grilling. The mushrooms were slightly overcooked as well, but the redeeming avocado was ripe and generously sized. The dish comes with a choice of fries or soup and I opted for cup of minestrone soup. Made fresh daily, the minestrone turned out to be the highlight of my meal. The broth was savory and rich, with just the right amount of zesty spices, and jam-packed with vegetables.
If you're in search of a dependable standby for consistent, comforting and affordable favorites, New Cauldron is just the place.
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By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent