Food & Drink

Hospitably Greek

The Greek Corner has been around for 28 years, and as with all things Greek, the restaurant has a proud history. The restaurant was adopted from its original founders by owner Jose Herrera and manager Vesta Herrick nearly 24 years ago.

The restaurant moved to a new location on Northern Lights in September 2009, but not much has changed. It still touts its authentic roots with a vibrant blue-and-white dining room, festive Greek music and a Greek dancer who headlines at the restaurant once a month. It even retained the pictures and posters from the original spot.

A read through the menu is as much of a lesson in Greek nouns as it is a run-down of the dishes offered. There's pastitsio ($17), a baked macaroni layered with ground beef, cheese, and béchamel sauce. Souvlaki ($18) is grilled and marinated chicken, lamb, beef, or shrimp served on a blanket of mushrooms, onions, and peppers. Dolmades avgolemono ($16) are grape leaves stuffed with ground beef, rice, herbs and spices topped with a chicken lemon sauce.

On my first visit to the new location I was pleasantly surprised by the open dining area and the expanded patio seating. The 11:30 a.m. lunch rush had just begun, but the waiters were friendly and attentive. I ordered the pita pizza ($6) and the Mediterranean pasta ($15).

The pizza was topped with jalapenos, pineapple and pepperoni. The consistency of the pita bread in place of traditional pizza dough gave the single-serving pizza a unique texture, but overall the dish was relatively unremarkable.

In contrast, the pasta hit the spot. The dish was served with strands of spaghetti noodles drizzled with olive oil, garlic, marinara and wine. It was nicely dressed with feta cheese, fresh tomatoes, bell peppers, black olives and pepperoncinis. I would have preferred more than just a sprinkle of feta cheese, but overall the savory sauce tasted homemade.

I also visited the restaurant for dinner, ordering the kalamarakia appetizer ($8) and the roast leg of lamb ($17). My appetizer featured rings of pan-fried squid coated in a light breading and seasoning -- a less crispy take on traditional calamari.

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When the leg of lamb came out I was equally impressed by the flavor as I was by the portion size. A heaping serving of soft and tender lamb meat was prepared with a minimalist approach to dressing and seasoning that allowed the flavor of the meat to take the spotlight. The meal also included a classic take on chopped baby potatoes seasoned with herbs and a side of asparagus with a light drizzle of béarnaise sauce. I had barely devoured a third of the meal before I was nearly full.

The Greek Corner's family-style hospitality and traditional take on Greek cuisine prove a comforting truth; you don't have to go halfway across the world for an authentic Greek meal. Just go right around the corner.

By Randi Jo Gause

Daily News correspondent

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