In a dining community saturated with chain restaurants, it can be challenging to find authentic "mom and pop" restaurants.
Enter Andy and Norann Kriner, owners of Kriner's Diner. Since opening last August, the restaurant has quickly distinguished itself from its chain counterparts with budget-friendly comfort food served in a laid back, family-friendly atmosphere.
Before the debut of Kriner's Diner, Andy spent more than 20 years in the restaurant business, including a stint at his mother's restaurant in Soldotna, Sourdough Sal's. At Kriner's he's taken some cues from Sourdough Sal's and incorporated some of his own.
The menu is modeled after an old-fashioned newspaper, describing the history of Alaska, the restaurant and the owners. It's packed with substantial meals like steak and eggs ($14.99), the Jim Burger ($8.49), an open-faced hot turkey sandwich ($9.99) and a New York steak dinner ($14.99).
Andy's influence is embedded in the menu, where the names of traditional items have been adapted to reflect his family's tastes, from his brother's Sam Burger ($7.49) to his mother-in-law's Pattsy's silver dollar pancakes ($4.99). It's not the only way he has paid tribute to his family ties -- there are 12 family members in his 15 employee staff.
Other menu items include Grandma's Conservative Chicken Corn Soup ($4.99) and American toast ($4.99). There are risks involved in mixing politics with business, but Andy is the first to admit that the inclusions are in jest. So far the restaurant's popularity is a testament its approach is working.
Politics aside, the menu holds a couple surprises, including the famous Kriner's Family Burger and American fries ($29.99). It's a 2-pound patty sandwiched between a 10-inch bun and topped with lettuce, tomato, onion and secret sauce, coupled with two pounds of fries. The daunting dish offers a spot on Kriner's Diner Wall of Fame for eaters who can finish it off in 45 minutes.
The diner was jam-packed during both of my visits. There were no booths available, and although the tables are adequately spaced, they afford little privacy. Which is just fine, since part of Kriner's charm is the no-frills atmosphere. Sports are broadcast on a small flat-screen at the front of the restaurant, where additional bar seating is available.
I started with the most popular menu item, Andy's Awesome Burger ($9.49). A substantial but not overwhelming patty is topped with pepper jack cheese, bacon and barbecue sauce. The barbecue sauce and bacon lent the burger a unique, Southern flavor. The patty was cooked to a perfect medium, and the handmade bun added a nice touch. The accompanying crinkle-cut fries didn't disappoint either -- crispy and not too greasy.
I also ordered the chicken fingers ($10.99). I was not expecting much, but they were far from generic. The four pieces of hand-breaded chicken tasted like they emerged straight from Mom's kitchen, not a fast food restaurant. The accompanying honey mustard, though, tasted more like a sandwich condiment than a dipping sauce.
Next time I opted for Jenne's Reindeer Sandwich ($10.99), which comes with reindeer sausage and onions, grilled and slathered in cheese and mayonnaise, and sandwiched between thick-sliced, buttered and grilled white bread. The sandwich is far from sensible eating, but the flavor is incredible. Still there's a reason why diced meat isn't typically offered in a sandwich format. It had almost completely fallen apart after just a couple bites. Nonetheless, I managed to take down the rest with my fork.
My dining partner's biscuits and gravy ($4.99) looked enticing, with two buttermilk biscuits drenched in gravy. I snuck a bite, and the fluffy biscuits and homemade gravy offered the perfect pairing.
I was stuffed, but the giant cinnamon rolls ($5.99) looked too tempting to pass up, so I snagged one to go. It was generous enough for two or three people at least, and piled high with icing. It was heavenly in flavor, although the icing was a bit dense and the bread wasn't as fluffy as I'd prefer. Nothing a quick microwave heating couldn't fix, though.
Kriner's Diner seems to have discovered the recipe for success -- budget-friendly comfort food with a generous helping of family and a dash of conservative flavor.
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Kriner's Diner
*** 1/2 $$
Location: 2409 C St.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday
Phone: 929-8257
Options: Dine-in, takeout
By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent