Despite little advertising beyond word of mouth, diners are already spreading the word about Grape Leaf Mediterranean Cafe and Restaurant. The restaurant brings refreshingly authentic elements to its international cuisine, from hand-crafted mozzarella and blue cheese to European-imported oil and vinegar, oven-baked bread and hormone-free beef.
Owner Hugo Gimenez's restaurant career extends back to Via Fettucine, a restaurant he opened in 1978 at the same location that now houses Grape Leaf. He sold the restaurant and it was later renamed the Greek Corner. When the Greek Corner relocated to Northern Lights Boulevard in 2009, it offered Gimenez the perfect opportunity to reincarnate a new restaurant in his former spot.
He teamed up with executive cook Franco Magrini and opened Grape Leaf in October. Natives of Argentina, the duo set out to develop dishes infused with international cuisine reminiscent of their upbringings.
The result is a cross-cultural menu offering appetizers, salads, pastas, pizzas, meats, seafood and desserts. Highlights include the Greek gyro ($11), French spinach crepes ($18), Italian chicken bruschetta ($18) and Spanish croquetas de jamon ($8).
There's a limited but diverse wine list and the wait staff is happy to recommend wine and food pairings. White and red wines are offered by the bottle or the glass, as are a selection of ports. Beer is served on tap and by the bottle.
The building's modest exterior is a cloak for the rustic, charming restaurant inside. Dimmed lighting, old-fashioned booths and faint music contribute to an intimate ambience.
The personable wait staff breezed from one table to the next, conversing with regulars and welcoming newcomers. Their personas make diners feel as though they're dining in a swanky European cafe -- minus the pretentiousness.
After being seated on my first visit, our waiter started us off with complimentary ciabatta bread and a Greek olive oil and Italian balsamic vinegar dip. The warm, homemade bread was delicious and doled out generously; he offered us two refills throughout our meal.
My polenta alpine appetizer ($11) was thoughtfully constructed, a petite architectural masterpiece. Three slices of portobello mushrooms were slathered in melted mozzarella cheese, mixed with sliced Italian ham and laid atop a square of polenta. It was good, although I found myself drawn toward the delicious mozzarella-laden mushroom topping over the polenta itself.
I also ordered the lunch special, a New York steak sandwich ($15) with tender chunks of steak topped with roasted red bell peppers and caramelized onions. It was the blue cheese spread that really captured the attention of my taste buds. Magrini later described the personal recipe handed down from his mother, crafted with imported Italian gorgonzola cheese, a touch of heavy cream and sage.
Spoiled as I'd been so far with the cuisine, the only thing that brought the meal down a notch were the fries, which looked and tasted like they came straight from the frozen food aisle.
A cup of the soup of the day -- tomato ($4) -- was embellished with basil and garlic. The thin, velvety consistency was lighter than I prefer, but it was full-flavored and made for a delicious dipping accompaniment to my sandwich.
On my next dinner visit, I delved into a hearty dish of butternut squash ravioli ($18). It may be the most heavenly ravioli I've ever tasted. Chunks of butternut squash were encapsulated by ravioli pasta, drizzled in olive oil and minced garlic, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and garnished with cayenne pepper, nutmeg and cloves. The dish struck an ideal balance between subtly sweet vegetables and savory pasta. I felt like giving myself a pat on the back for eating my vegetables without complaint.
I decided to indulge with a flan/dulce de leche ($7) dessert, a fluffy vanilla egg custard topped with whipped cream and caramel sauce. It was lighter than creme brulee and the dominant egg and sugar flavors made for a simple, yet delicious finale.
Grape Leaf offered plenty to encourage me to venture back. As with fine wine, this restaurant can only improve with age.
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By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent