When I first heard sushi and Eagle River paired in the same sentence, I was skeptical. Raised in Eagle River, I had sampled enough local cuisine to know that sushi had never been one of its strong suits. But that culinary void laid the foundation for Wasabi Garden founder John Lee.
Wasabi Garden opened in March of last year next to Valley River Cinemas, a location that formerly housed Szechuan Restaurant. At first glance inside, you may think not much has changed. But despite its namesake, the restaurant is no garden-variety sushi spot.
My dining partner and I ventured in after work and made a beeline for the sushi bar to take advantage of front row seats. The understated decor and dimmed lighting were instantly brightened by the sushi chef, who paused from delicately slicing a slab of tuna to offer us an animated smile. The waitress scurried over and let out an enthusiastic greeting echoed across the entire wait staff.
A quick survey of the restaurant revealed a small but diverse following of patrons -- a family dinner, several casual dates and a solo sushi-bar foray. Vivid pictures of tantalizing sushi dishes adorning the walls already had my mouth watering.
The menu blends traditional and modern sushi dishes with a distinct Korean influence. Special rolls range from traditional favorites like the Spicy Tuna Roll ($8.95), to innovations like the French Fry Roll (crab meat, avocado, cream cheese, fried potatoes, $11.95). Fresh sashimi assortments are also available in a range of sizes ($19.95 - $30.95).
If you're not a sushi fan, the menu contains several traditional Korean dishes such as kalbi (grilled short ribs, $19.95) and ojingo bokum (spicy grilled squid, $14.95). Although you won't find it on the menu, they also create sake infusions in-house, with flavors like cherry, apple, pineapple and grape.
I selected the Eagle River roll ($12.95) as a sentimental tribute to my old stomping grounds. The medley of tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, cucumber and salmon, topped with avocado, tuna and salmon is drizzled with spicy mayo and served on a blanket of unagi sauce. Each bite offers a generous mouthful of layered flavors -- first sweet and soft, then spicy and crunchy.
My dining companion unsuccessfully searched the menu for Mongolian beef, and ended up choosing for the traditional Korean dish, bulgogi ($18.95) -- a choice he would not regret. Getting the textures of this dish right is key; thin-sliced, tender velvety meat is marinated for two days in a mix of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, sake and garlic.
Lee's rendition of the dish got it just right, morphing a seemingly simple dish into a sweet, flavorful sensation. It's no surprise he has the dish down to an art. He perfected bulgogi growing up around his mother's Korean restaurant.
The dish had its price -- it emerged nearly 25 minutes after the roll. But despite the delay, the attentive wait staff and sushi chef chimed in regularly to check on us.
The true star of the experience proved to be the jalapeno bomb appetizer ($8.95). The concoction of spicy tuna and jalapeno neutralized by cream cheese and wrapped in a crunchy deep fried coating had a zest that left me guzzling my water -- and coming back for more.
The next time I dropped by I ordered the halibut bento box ($17.95). The assortment of grilled halibut, tempura shrimp and vegetables, California roll, rice, and miso soup offered enough food for two. The dish paled in comparison to my first experience, but I was pleasantly surprised to find the sauce sweet and flavorful without overpowering or clouding the freshness of the halibut.
Already Lee's restaurant seems to have carved a niche in the Eagle River dining scene -- and saved local sushi fans some gasoline money. It's also one of the only sushi restaurants that offers free delivery in the area. I'm out of the delivery range now, but I might find myself driving all the way back for my next sushi fix.
• Got a restaurant tip, a new menu, a favorite dish or a chef change? Send an e-mail to play@adn.com.
By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent