A loyal pizza fan, I am of the sentiment that pizza restaurants are like coffee shops -- there is no such thing as too many. Diners can now add Portobello to the list of places to satisfy a craving for Italian food and pizza. Owner Antonio Ochoa opened the restaurant in June to fill the shoes of the location's previous restaurant, Hot Mama's.
Tucked in a strip mall on Arctic Boulevard, the understated restaurant does not contend to be anything more than what it is -- an affordable, quick-stop shop for pizza, wings, Phillys and Italian dishes. Minimalist decor adorns the walls and countertops. The waiting area comprises a fish tank and a couple weathered chairs. Behind the front desk, pizza boxes and cooking ingredients are strewn on the countertops. Giggling children sprint from the kitchen, giving way to a laid-back atmosphere.
But the restaurant, which caters only to takeout and delivery requests, is more focused on food than on appearances. What Portobello lacks in visual flair, it more than makes up for with its cuisine, which consists entirely of recipes crafted from scratch, from the pizza sauce to the ranch dressing.
The menu offers a variety of pizza topping combinations. The Portobello special ($15 - $20) is topped with pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, and green peppers. The Mama Mia (large only, $23) has pepperoni, Canadian bacon, sausage, fresh tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, green peppers, black olives and extra cheese. Nearly all of the pizza renditions are available in calzone form ($13.99) as well.
If you're hankering for something other than pizza, the menu includes several versions of the Philly sandwich ($10.99), sub sandwiches and gyros ($9.99), and a variety of salads. Traditional Italian cuisine, including dishes like chicken Parmesan ($12) or fettuccini Alfredo ($12) are also offered.
On my first visit, I was impressed that despite serving only take-out and delivery diners, I'm lined up behind three customers in the small waiting area. When I finally order, I decide on a small, 12" Chef's Mistake pizza ($15), which is loaded with pepperoni, sausage, Canadian bacon, mushrooms, green peppers and olives, along with mozzarella cheese. The crust is fluffy, with a conservative spread of sauce and a liberal amount cheese placed on top.
I also try a 10-piece order of wings ($10.99), choosing five hot and five barbecue. They are also offered in portions of 20 ($18.99), 30 ($25.99), 40 ($32.99), and 50 ($39.99) wings, in flavors ranging from mild, medium, hot, fire, seasoned, and barbecue. The menu describes the wings as "jumbo," which proves to be an understatement. My wings are far from skimpy, and even bigger in flavor. The hot wings are true to their name, leaving my mouth pleasantly tingling afterward. The barbecue wings are lightly glazed with the optimal amount of sauce.
On my next trip, I ordered the Portobello Philly ($10.99). It's crammed with steak, salami, onions, green peppers, mushrooms, and black olives, all slathered with melted Swiss cheese. The aroma taunts me the entire drive home, so much so that I sneak a piece of the tender steak, which is gooey with cheese. When I arrive home, I'm forced to use a knife and fork to take down the massive sandwich, which offers a bold flavored twist on the traditional Philly. The fries, however, are soggy, and leave room for improvement.
I also gave the lasagna dinner ($12) a try, which is accompanied with garlic bread and a side salad. The portion size is generous enough for two, and the authentic flavor makes me feel as though I'm eating leftovers packed by mom. Layers of pasta, meat sauce, and an alternating trio of ricotta, Parmesan and mozzarella cheese are paired in just the right amounts.
Even without a dine-in service, Portobello has already begun attracting Italian lovers with its made-from-scratch cuisine at reasonable prices. I, for one, can say they have earned yet another customer.
By Randi Jo Gause
Daily News correspondent