There are many paths through Alaska's wilderness. Some are paved, most are not. Where the highways end, rivers begin. And eventually, the rivers meet the sea.
Adventurers have many options throughout the state to see some awesome landscapes, land some incredible fish and see some big wildlife. Along the way, you'll probably learn about the history of the region and its ecosystem. Some trips last all day. Others are 10-12 days and involve camping, flights and lots of bug dope.
My travel agent, Sally Huntley of Alaska Travel Source, just returned from a float trip on the Kongakut River in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. She was positively gushing about the experience. "It's another world," she said. "I could stand on a peak and look out over the Arctic plain to the village of Kaktovik. Far in the distance I could even see the pack ice," she said. "The weather was glorious and we didn't even have any bugs."
Kyle Campbell of Arctic Treks was one of the guides on Huntley's trip. "The Kongakut is one of my favorite floats," he said. "The mountains of the Brooks Range come closer to the ocean here than anywhere else on the Arctic plain. So on the trip you see the high mountains, the rolling hills and the tundra. There is great fishing for Arctic char and lots of wildlife, including musk ox, caribou and Dall sheep."
On the 10-day trip, travelers spend four or five solid days on the river. The rest of the time is spent hiking, fishing or relaxing. Although the accommodations are somewhat rustic (tents), this is a world-class experience. The price is $5,050 per person from Fairbanks. That includes a commercial flight from Fairbanks to Arctic Village, bush plane to the headwaters of the Kongakut and your pickup in Kaktovik. The next trip is scheduled to depart from Fairbanks on Aug. 22. For more information, call 907-455-6502.
There are less exotic river trips in Fairbanks, though. Right on the Chena River, the Riverboat Discovery leaves several times each day for a three-hour cruise. This sternwheeler is similar to the riverboats that came up the Yukon River with freight and passengers in the early 20th century.
Today, though, the Riverboat Discovery offers travelers a glimpse of some of Interior Alaska's most notable traditions. Right after pulling away from the dock, you'll see a bush plane take off and land on a small grass strip along the river. Further down the river, there is a special sled dog demonstration from Trail Breaker Kennel. These are Iditarod legend Susan Butcher's dogs. Her family, including her husband Dave Munson and their daughters, have carried on with the kennel following her death in 2006. From the deck of the riverboat, you'll see a dog team hooked up to a four-wheel "sled" and hear about the history of mushing in Alaska.
The riverboat sails to the end of the Chena River at the confluence with the Tanana River. Pulling up to the bank, guests disembark for a tour of a Chena Athabascan village. Learn about the history of the area's indigenous people and how they harvested and used the fish, wildlife and flora of the area. There's a birch bark canoe on display, as well as bead work and fur works from local artisans. The three-hour tour costs $62.95 per person for adults, or $39.95 for children. For more information, call 907-479-6673.
Closer to Anchorage, you can drive up the Glenn Highway to float the Matanuska River with Nova Riverrunners. They have several floats, including their popular "Lion's Head" trip. You can choose a paddle boat or just hunker down and let the guide do all the work with the big oars. Nova provides helmets, drysuits and life jackets. It's a great way to cool off when it's too hot outside. The cost is $95 each.
There is another 2.5-hour trip that's designed especially for little kids and grandparents. It leaves at the toe of the Matanuska Glacier and is decidedly calmer. No drysuits are needed here -- just rain gear and life jackets. The cost is $85 for adults, or $45 for children 5 to 11 years old. Call 800-746-5753.
For a real thrill, head up to Talkeetna and go on the Devil's Canyon Tour with Mahay's Jetboat Adventures. "Usually we take the McKinley Queen upriver," said co-owner Sharon Heim Mahay. The McKinley Queen is a triple-jet with three Cummins 335 Diesel jets with 945 horsepower. It is a beast. "During the last 15 or 20 minutes you are in the middle of Class V whitewater and you are looking at Class VI," she said. "There is a big rock and haystacks of rushing whitewater, but you can go out on the front deck for your own 'Kodak moment.' You'll feel the awe of the whitewater -- but the boat is stable," she said.
The Devil's Canyon Tour leaves around 9:30 a.m. each day and costs $165 per person. It's a five-hour trip. Your first stop after leaving Talkeetna is the big whitewater in the canyon. On the way back, you stop at a clear salmon stream, at an eagle's nest and at a trapper's cabin. Lunch is included.
The Kenai River is known more for fishing than for floating, but it's a fun ride down the upper Kenai River and through the canyon to Skilak Lake. Alaska River Adventures is one of the guide companies that offer both half-day and full-day trips. The half-day trips are a low-key float through some rich fishing areas (but there's no fishing from the boat), for $59 plus tax. The full-day trips feature the Kenai River Canyon portion, along with a hike at the end of the ride at Skilak Lake. The cost is $175 per person plus tax. Call 907-595-2000.
Just across Cook Inlet from the Kenai Peninsula there is some wild country. Dan Oberlatz of Alaska Alpine Adventures is right at home in this wilderness -- and he's happy to show it off.
Alaska Alpine Adventures offers a float trip on the Chilakadrotna River in SOAR inflatable canoes. The canoes are manufactured by Folding Kayak Adventures and are "expedition grade." The trip is 10 days long, which features four days at Twin Lakes in Lake Clark National Park. The canoes are rated to accommodate 1,200 pounds, so they are sturdy. The Chilakadrotna is a single-channel river with some sweepers and Class II-III whitewater. It's great for fishing, but Dan cautions, "we are not fishing guides." The river has been designated a "Wild and Scenic River." The cost is $3,650 per person from Anchorage. That includes all flights, meals and accommodations.
If the Chilakadrotna is not exotic enough for you, cast your eyes farther down the Alaska Peninsula to the Aniakchak National Monument. This giant caldera looks like something out of "Raiders of the Lost Ark." It's like flying inside a giant volcano with one wall eaten away. In fact, it's been carved away by the Aniakchak River. Fly with your group from King Salmon into "Surprise Lake" at the base of the caldera. Spend 4-6 days hiking around the area from the base camp. Keep an eye out for bears, foxes, caribou and other wildlife. Then, pump up the SOAR two-person canoes and float the river. You float through the cut and down the river to Aniakchak Bay. There's a Forest Service cabin at the bay where you spend the last night. There are no more scheduled trips this year, although if you have a group of at least four people, the cost would be $4,950 per person from Anchorage. Call 877-525-2577.
Down in Wrangell, sail with Alaska Waters up the Stikine River. It's the fastest-flowing navigable stream in North America. From Wrangell, sail in the Chutine Warrior across the delta and stop at one of the flat islands. "Right now the islands are filled with wildflowers," said owner Jim Leslie. Depending on the time of year, you're likely to also see migratory birds. "We take folks up to see Shakes Glacier on this trip," said Leslie. Shakes Glacier is one of the southernmost tidal glaciers in Alaska. Depending on the tides and the weather, Leslie knows where to find fish, bears, moose, eagles, seals and the occasional iceberg. Cost for the four-hour tour: $190 per person.
There are many more rivers to float, including the Copper River, the Porcupine River and the Hulahula. Also on my list: the Wood River lakes north of Dillingham. But these selections should give you enough experience to get your river rat merit badge.
Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty-destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. You can follow him on Twitter (@alaskatravelGRM) and alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.