11 holiday cookie recipes to savor and share this season

Does a big, beautiful tray of cookies ever lose its novelty? No matter your age, the occasion or the selection, being presented with an array of enticing sweets is guaranteed to bring a smile to your face. At least that’s how I’ve always felt.

I’ve been a member of the cookie fan club all my life. Spending several months each of the past five years recruiting contributors, refining ideas, testing recipes and sitting in on marathon photo sessions has only amplified my appreciation for this treat beloved the world over in all its many forms.

We’re in our 19th year of holiday cookies at The Washington Post, with a roster of nearly 400 cookies, and yet we still managed to find fresh takes that span a wide array of ingredients, cultures and dietary needs. There is no theme here, just a concerted effort to offer recipes that are accessible, eye-catching and, of course, delicious. Many can be out of the oven in just about an hour, give or take. More time equals more cookies.

We reached out to some of our favorite chefs, cookbook authors and social media food personalities for their best and brightest cookie ideas, and did they ever deliver! In this group of 11 recipes, you’ll find twists on old favorites — Vegan Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies, anyone? — and treats you’ve probably never seen before — hello, Lemongrass and Pandan Thumbprint Cookies. The options include recipes suitable for those on gluten-free or vegan diets, as well as one sweetened without the use of refined sugars. Citrus, spice, nuts and dried fruit are featured as well.

On behalf of all of our testers, tasters, editors, photographers, designers and stylists, I’d like to welcome you to explore our 2023 holiday cookie collection. The recipe developers introduce their creations here.

Golden Milk Sugar Cookies

My earliest recollection of haldi doodh, or golden milk, is probably when I was 7 and my mom made me a big, piping hot cup to help me get rid of a cold. As I’ve learned to make my own version, I’ve come to enjoy this beautifully simple yet complex drink as a delicious treat, a magic elixir, comfort drink and excellent companion to a cake, as well as a fantastic flavor profile for baked goods. The way my mom used to make haldi doodh was with milk, turmeric, honey, cardamom, saffron, almond and pistachio. She was extra, and it’s what I loved about her.

The version of golden milk that I make includes everything my mom used to add, plus cinnamon and whole peppercorns. I love this flavor profile so much that it was only right to be inspired by it and create baked versions, including these soft, chewy and brightly colored cookies decorated with a rosewater-almond glaze and rose petals.

-Keya Wingfield

Golden Milk Sugar Cookies

22 servings (makes 22 cookies)

You’ll be shocked by the ease with which the dough comes together, mixed by hand in a single bowl. Using melted butter streamlines the process and yields a soft, chewy cookie.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days, or freeze the undecorated cookies for up to 1 month. You can also freeze the shaped dough balls for up to 1 month, adding about 4 minutes to the baking time.

Where to buy: Edible silver leaf can be found at cake supply stores or online.

Total time: 1 hour, plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

For the cookies

2 sticks (16 tablespoons/227 grams) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon (25 to 30 strands) saffron

1 teaspoon ground cardamom, preferably freshly ground

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

pinch freshly ground black pepper

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (226 grams) granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

2 2/3 cups (332 grams) all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached

1/4 cup (28 grams) nonfat milk powder

For the glaze

1/2 cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon rose water

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

pinch fine salt

For the garnish

1/4 cup dried rose petals

Edible silver leaf (optional)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Make the cookies: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a medium heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat, combine the butter, saffron, cardamom, turmeric, cinnamon and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is about three-quarters melted. (Achieving the right dough texture largely depends on not overheating the butter. The main goal here is to bloom the spices for color and flavor.) Remove from the heat and pour the mixture into a large bowl.

Add the granulated sugar to the butter mixture, whisking vigorously. It will look separated at first but will eventually come together. The vigorous stirring also helps the butter cool faster. Once the sugar is incorporated and the mixture has thickened, whisk in the egg, egg yolk and vanilla and almond extracts, followed by the salt, baking powder and baking soda.

Add the flour and milk powder and, using a flexible spatula, stir until just combined. If the dough is too soft for scooping, refrigerate for 5 minutes.

Using a No. 30 disher or a spoon, scoop 2-tablespoon portions of dough (about 40 grams each) onto the prepared sheet pans, spacing 2 inches apart.

Bake one sheet at a time, 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges are lightly brown and the centers have puffed and then settled. The color will transition from a bright yellow to more of a mustard tint. They may look slightly underdone, but that’s the goal to achieve a chewy-cakey center. Let cool on the pans for 10 minutes, and then transfer the cookies to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Make the glaze: While the cookies are baking, in a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, heavy cream, rose water, almond extract and salt until thoroughly combined. Transfer the glaze to a piping bag fitted with a narrow tip or a zip-top bag with the corner cut off. Or leave the glaze in the bowl and use a spoon.

Decorate the cookies: Drizzle the glaze over the cooled cookies, and garnish with the rose petals, edible silver leaf, if using, and a pinch of cinnamon. (If you have leftover glaze, it’s great added to coffee.)

Substitutions: Nut-free? Leave out the almond extract and use more vanilla, if desired.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 201 calories, 27g carbohydrates, 41mg cholesterol, 9g fat, 1g fiber, 3g protein, 6g saturated fat, 96mg sodium, 14g sugar

From food writer and baker Keya Wingfield of Keya & Co Baking.

Pistachio-Coconut Blondies

Meghli is a celebratory rice pudding, spiced with cinnamon and caraway and topped with nuts. It is traditionally made after the birth of a baby. I took the flavors of this traditional Lebanese dish and combined them with the American blondie bar. The flavors and chewy texture are reminiscent of meghli, but served up in a new form.

-Amanda Saab

Pistachio-Coconut Blondies

24 servings (makes one 9-by-13-inch slab)

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 2 months.

Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

16 tablespoons (2 sticks/227 grams) unsalted butter, melted

1 1/4 cups (275 grams) packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 1/4 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground caraway

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup (120 grams) coarsely chopped pistachios, plus 2 tablespoons for optional garnish

1/2 cup (43 grams) shredded unsweetened coconut, plus 2 tablespoons for optional garnish

DIRECTIONS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with a piece of parchment paper large enough for a generous overhang on the long sides. (Alternatively, generously grease the pan with butter, and then coat it well with flour, shaking out any excess.)

In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter with the brown and granulated sugars until well combined. Add the eggs, egg yolk and vanilla and whisk until homogeneous. Whisk in the flour, cinnamon, caraway, salt and baking powder until no dry streaks remain. Using a flexible spatula, fold in the pistachios and coconut until evenly distributed.

Scrape the batter into the pan, and top with additional pistachios and coconut, if desired. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Using the parchment, lift the slab out of the pan (if you meet any resistance, gently run a butter knife around the edges). Cut the slab into 24 (about 2-inch) squares and serve.

Substitutions: Nut-free? Leave out the pistachios and use more coconut, if desired.

Nutrition | Per 2-inch square: 219 calories, 26g carbohydrates, 44mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 1g fiber, 3g protein, 6g saturated fat, 68mg sodium, 16g sugar

From chef and food writer Amanda Saab, of the blog Amanda’s Plate.

Chocolate-Matcha Cookies

When I was presented with the challenge of creating a holiday cookie recipe that is free of gluten, dairy, eggs, nuts and sesame, I immediately realized that I had to rely heavily on texture and lean on gluten-free flour flavors. After all, the beauty of gluten-free baking is that there are many alternative flours that provide much texture and flavor. Oat flour is one of the most versatile, textural and flavor-packed gluten-free flours. It provides chewiness, nuttiness and elasticity to baked goods, especially cookies and bread. The cookie also had to look striking, because let’s face it, everyone loves a beautiful holiday cookie box. The matcha and cocoa not only provide flavor, but also create an interesting pattern of color. The exterior coating of sugar adds a bit of crunch that contrasts beautifully against the chewy interior. I hope you enjoy them.

-Aran Goyoaga

Chocolate-Matcha Cookies

12 servings (makes 12 cookies)

For the dairy-free butter, it’s best to use the kind that is specifically branded for baking, which comes in stick form. The dairy-free butters in tubs tend to have a higher water content and don’t react the same when baking. It’s best to use store-bought oat flour, as a food processor will not grind it fine enough for this recipe. Be sure to use oat flour marked “gluten-free” (oats themselves are gluten-free but are sometimes processed in facilities where traces of gluten are present).

For best results, use a kitchen scale to carefully weigh the ingredients. Slight variations can have an impact on the final texture.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 50 mins, plus cooling time .

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 cups (180 grams) plus 1 tablespoon gluten-free oat flour, divided, plus more as needed

1 1/2 cups (190 grams) confectioners’ sugar

Scant 1/2 cup (60 grams) tapioca starch/flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

6 tablespoons (85 grams) vegan butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 tablespoons (66 grams) unsweetened applesauce, plus more as needed

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 tablespoon culinary grade matcha powder

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon unsweetened natural cocoa powder

1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar, for rolling

DIRECTIONS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a food processor, combine 1 1/2 cups (180 grams) of oat flour, the confectioners’ sugar, tapioca starch, baking soda and salt. Pulse to aerate, about 10 times. Add the butter, applesauce and vanilla and process until you have a soft, sticky dough, about 30 seconds. Let the dough sit for 5 minutes to hydrate. Do not clean the food processor; you will use it again. (If the dough feels too dry, add 1 to 2 teaspoons more applesauce, and if it feels too wet, add 1 tablespoon of the oat flour.)

Divide the dough into 3 equal parts (200 grams each) and place each piece in separate small bowls. Return one of the dough pieces to the food processor and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oat flour. Process until smooth, about 5 seconds, and return to its bowl.

Return a second piece of dough to the food processor and add the matcha powder and lemon zest. Process until smooth and green, about 5 seconds; then return the matcha dough to its bowl. Don’t worry if some of the matcha remains in the food processor, as the cocoa is darker and will cover any dusting of green.

Add the final piece of the plain dough to the food processor. Add the cocoa powder and process until smooth, about 5 seconds; then return the dough to its bowl. The dough is soft, so use a flexible spatula to scrape as much of it as possible out of the food processor bowl after each flavoring.

Spread the granulated sugar on a small plate. Take about 3/4 tablespoon (17 grams, about the size of a large marble) of each of the three doughs. Press them together and roll into a ball 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. Then roll the combined dough ball in the sugar and place on the prepared sheet pans, making sure the three colors are visible on top. Repeat with the remaining dough, spacing the balls 2 to 3 inches apart to account for spreading. If the dough becomes too sticky to work with, cover the bowls and refrigerate for 5 minutes.

Lightly flatten the dough balls with your palms, and then use your fingertips to smooth and reshape the edges so you have even circles (this will ensure they are nice and round when they bake).

Bake one sheet at a time for 6 minutes. Check the cookies to see if they are firming up and have begun to crack. If they have not begun to crack, take a flat spatula and lightly press on the cookies just until they begin to crack. Continue baking another 4 to 5 minutes, or until the cookie edges are firm but the center still feels soft. Transfer the sheet pan to a wire rack and let cool for about 10 minutes. Then transfer the cookies directly to the rack and let cool completely. Repeat with the other pan.

Variations: This recipe is nut-free, but if you can tolerate nuts, add 1 teaspoon of almond extract to the dough for a nutty scent.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 218 calories, 38g carbohydrates, 0mg cholesterol, 6g fat, 3g fiber, 3g protein, 5g saturated fat, 187mg sodium, 20g sugar

From Aran Goyoaga, author of “Cannelle et Vanille Bakes Simple” (Sasquatch Books, 2021)

Pistachio Shortbread With Pomegranate Glaze

During my undergraduate years, whenever I missed flavors from home, I’d search the nearest grocery store for my favorite childhood snacks: pistachios and pomegranates. Twenty years ago, they were either out of my budget or impossible to find, and I’d leave disappointed. Today, thanks to growing practices in California, pistachios are around all year and more affordable. Late fall and early winter brings pyramid stacks of ruby red pomegranates to most stores, and I find I can’t imagine a holiday dish, sweet or savory, not enhanced by the sharp sweetness of pomegranate.

These shortbreads combine so many elements in one thin wedge: a buttery, crumbly cookie with toasty caramelized bits of brown butter and bits of green pistachio, all topped with a bright pink, slightly sharp pomegranate glaze. They are complex in flavor, but an easy bake overall: Everything goes into a bowl, the dough is pressed into a round cake tin and scored, then baked and festively decorated. If you are making these in warmer weather, raspberries or strawberries make a fine substitute for the pomegranate in the glaze.

-Sam Rehn

Pistachio Shortbread With Pomegranate Glaze

16 servings (makes one 8-inch round)

Storage: Store unglazed shortbread in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months. The glazed shortbread will keep at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Where to buy: For the finest texture, confectioners’ sugar made with tapioca starch, such as from the Wholesome brand, is preferred for this recipe; it can be found at natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets. Trader Joe’s confectioners’ sugar is another option.

Active time: 20 mins; Total time: 1 hour , plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

For the shortbread

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (117 grams) raw, unsalted pistachios, divided

1 2/3 cups (208 grams) all-purpose flour

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (70 grams) confectioners’ sugar, preferably made with tapioca starch (see Where to buy)

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks/170 grams) unsalted butter, plus more as needed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the glaze

1 cup (125 grams) confectioners’ sugar, preferably made with tapioca starch (see Where to buy)

2 tablespoons pomegranate juice

DIRECTIONS

Make the dough: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Cut two 5-inch-wide strips of parchment paper and lay them crisscross in an 8-inch round metal cake pan, so there is overhang on each side. Fold the paper at the point where the bottom of the pan meets the side, so the parchment paper stays put.

Arrange the nuts in a single layer on a small sheet pan. Toast for 10 minutes, or until aromatic, stirring halfway through. Transfer to the bowl of a mini food processor and let cool completely. (If you need to speed this part up, transfer the food processor bowl to the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes.) Once completely cool, pulse the nuts until finely ground.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt. Measure out 2 tablespoons of the ground nuts and set aside. Add the remaining nuts to the flour mixture and whisk to thoroughly combine.

In an 8- to 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter, stirring and scraping the pan constantly, until it smells nutty and most of the milk solids turn medium-brown, about 7 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat so the butter does not burn.

Transfer the brown butter to the bowl with the flour mixture and add the vanilla. Mix with a flexible spatula until the dough comes together in a loose ball.

Press the dough into the prepared pan in an even layer, ensuring no dough has started creeping up the sides (those edges are more prone to burning). Dock the dough all over with the tines of a fork to prevent air bubbles. Use a sharp knife to score the dough into 16 wedges to make it easier to slice later, but don’t cut all the way through. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, or until the edges are golden. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for 5 to 10 minutes, then use the parchment overhang to transfer the shortbread to a cutting board.

Slice into 16 wedges, following along the lines you scored before baking. Pull the pieces apart so there’s at least 1/2 inch of space between them.

Make the glaze: Once the shortbread has completely cooled, in a medium bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar with the pomegranate juice to form a smooth glaze. (Use more confectioners’ sugar for a thicker glaze and more pomegranate juice for a thinner glaze.) Using the whisk, drizzle and swirl the glaze over the cookies. Immediately top with a sprinkling of the reserved ground pistachios. Let the glaze set completely, about 30 minutes, before serving.

Nutrition | Per wedge: 214 calories, 24g carbohydrates, 23mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 1g fiber, 3g protein, 6g saturated fat, 39mg sodium, 13g sugar

From baker and recipe developer Sam Rehn of the blog Buttermilk by Sam.

Tahini Date Squares

How to describe this bar? Imagine you’re an oatmeal cookie, gathered for the holidays with your family, including your distant cousin, the Rice Krispies Treat. In triumphantly struts another member of the clan, fresh from a year abroad, radiating worldliness, and speaking with a new accent. This is the Tahini Date Square. You exchange an eyeroll with Rice Krispies Treat, but despite yourself, you’re charmed; this is one undeniably fabulous relative.

A more grounded description might be: It consists of a crispy-chewy, buttery base of oats, vanilla, tahini and peanut butter, topped with a sweet date jam and a final layer of white chocolate. Dates are the understated star. They’re the only ingredient present in all three layers, in both powdered and the usual dried forms. In addition to its caramel flavor and color, the fruit contributes ample sweetness (there’s no added sugar in this recipe), which is supported by the peanut butter in the base and the milk powder in the white chocolate topping. The squares are more than presentable without any garnish beyond the three layers, but a dusting of something colorful or contrasting adds a note of festiveness.

-Brian Levy

Tahini Date Squares

36 servings (makes one 8-inch slab)

For gluten-free squares, use oats marked “gluten-free” (oats themselves are gluten-free but are sometimes processed in facilities where traces of gluten are present).

Make ahead: Refrigerate the date jam in an airtight container for up to 1 week; bring to room temperature before spreading. The white chocolate topping can be refrigerated up to 1 month in advance; melt in the microwave or in a double boiler (or heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water) before using, whisk to recombine and immediately pour over the cookie slab.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days; in the refrigerator for up to 1 week; or in the freezer for up to 3 months (defrost before serving).

Where to buy: Date sugar, sometimes labeled as date powder, is available at well-stocked grocery stores and online. Organic, fair-trade cacao butter can be found at natural food stores or online.

Total time: 1 hour , plus 1 hour cooling/chilling time

INGREDIENTS

For the base

6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, plus more for the pan

3 tablespoons (50 grams) smooth, unsalted peanut butter

3 tablespoons (50 grams) well-stirred tahini

2 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup (145 grams) date sugar (date powder)

1 1/2 cups (135 grams) old-fashioned rolled oats

For the date jam

12 to 13 (1 1/4 cups/185 grams) pitted Medjool dates

1/4 cup (60 milliliters) water

pinch fine salt

For the white chocolate topping

1 cup (160 grams) chopped cacao butter (see headnote)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 tablespoons date sugar (date powder)

1/4 cup (30 grams) nonfat dry milk powder, preferably organic

bee pollen, black sesame seeds, poppy seeds, finely grated orange zest, chopped pistachios, chopped pepitas (pumpkin seeds), ground cacao nibs or ground freeze-dried raspberries or strawberries, for garnish (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Lightly butter an 8-inch square metal pan or similar (such as two 8-by-4-inch loaf pans) and line it with a piece of parchment paper, with enough overhang on two sides.

Make the base: In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the butter, peanut butter, tahini, water and salt, stirring frequently with a heatproof spatula or spoon, until the butter has completely melted and the mixture is homogeneous, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla, followed by the date sugar and oats and mix well to combine.

Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and press it in firmly, first with the back of a large spoon or spatula, and then with your fingers, to form a dense, even layer. Bake about 20 minutes, or until deeply golden (it will be slightly darker at the edges), rotating the pan front to back halfway through. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 5 minutes before adding the jam, which you can make while the base bakes.

Make the date jam: If the dates are jammy-soft, put them in the food processor (if you don’t have a food processor, you can use a mortar and pestle) along with the water. (If the dates are too firm to squish between your fingers, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan and remove from the heat. Add the dates and soak for 5 minutes, then strain and transfer to the food processor.) Add the salt and process to a smooth, thick and spreadable paste, about 2 minutes. Set aside until the oat base is out of the oven and has cooled for at least 5 minutes. Using a spoon or offset spatula, gently spread the date jam over the baked oat base in a smooth, even layer, all the way to the edges.

Make the white chocolate topping: Place the cacao butter and unsalted butter in a microwave-safe bowl and heat at 50-percent power in 15-second bursts, stopping to check and stir in between. (Alternatively, place both butters in a metal bowl set over a medium saucepan with half an inch of water in it - make sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Over medium heat, bring the water to a gentle simmer. Turn the heat off, leaving the bowl resting on the pan on the burner, and let the steam gently melt the cacao butter as you occasionally stir it with a flexible spatula.)

Once the cacao butter is completely melted, use a fine-mesh strainer to sift in the date sugar and milk powder (discard any big particles left behind), and whisk until homogeneous. Immediately pour the topping over the date jam-covered base and, holding the hot pan with a kitchen towel or oven mitts, tilt it to distribute the topping into a smooth, thin and even layer. (Do not allow the topping to cool before pouring over or you will not get the desired pale white chocolate layer.) If desired, sprinkle on any of the optional garnishes.

Transfer the pan to the refrigerator and chill until the topping has hardened, about 1 hour. Transfer to the counter and let sit long enough for the white chocolate to come to room temperature before slicing, so it doesn’t crack when you slice through it. (Without refrigeration, the bars will take 2 to 3 hours to set at room temperature.)

Use the parchment overhang to lift the slab from the pan and transfer it to a cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice into 36 (1 1/3-inch) squares and serve, or refrigerate until needed.

Substitutions: Nut-free? Use tahini instead of peanut butter. Sesame allergy? Use peanut butter instead of tahini. Instead of the white chocolate topping use 1 1/3 cups (235 grams) chopped store-bought white chocolate and melt it with the unsalted butter as directed for the cacao butter in the recipe.

Variations: To make the recipe vegan, use a vegan butter or coconut oil in place of the dairy butter; and in the white chocolate topping, omit the milk powder and increase the date sugar to 4 1/2 tablespoons (45 grams). For the oat base, you can use all tahini or all peanut butter if you prefer it to a combination of the two; just make sure it totals 6 tablespoons (100 grams). If you have to skip any of the layers, omit the date jam - the bars are still delicious without it.

Nutrition | Per 1 1/3-inch square: 126 calories, 11g carbohydrates, 6mg cholesterol, 8g fat, 2g fiber, 2g protein, 4g saturated fat, 48mg sodium, 7g sugar

From pastry chef Brian Levy, author of “Good & Sweet” (Avery, 2022).

Lemongrass and Pandan Thumbprint Cookies

In the beginning of quarantine, I was my most ambitious self in the kitchen. There were tons of food projects that I had lined up, and one of them I remember most vividly was making kaya toast from scratch. Kaya is a coconut jam that’s popular in Southeast Asia, especially in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. It’s custardy and rich with the addition of eggs and pandan leaves. I haven’t had quite the same patience to make kaya jam at home since then. It was a game changer when I discovered that I could order an Indonesian brand of kaya jam, Mariza Srikaya, online.

For these cookies, I knew I wanted the jam to shine as a filling, which it does when paired with lemongrass, an aromatic herb commonly used in savory Southeast Asian dishes. During the holidays, I’m usually freezing cold in New York, and I like to imagine myself in warmer places. This quick and easy lemongrass thumbprint cookie’s tropical flavors really bring me there. The mellow green hue of the pandan-kaya jam reminds me of going Christmas tree shopping with my family in California. The dust of confectioners’ sugar on top of the baked cookies adds a bit of sweetness, but is also a decoration reminiscent of snow flurries (without the chill!).

-Abi Balingit

Lemongrass and Pandan Thumbprint Cookies

24 servings (makes 24 cookies)

Make ahead: Freeze the unbaked, shaped dough for up to 2 months until you’re ready to bake and fill them with jam.

Storage: Refrigerate the filled cookies in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Where to buy: Pandan kaya jam can be found online or at Southeast Asian grocery stores. Balingit prefers the Indonesian Mariza Srikaya brand for this recipe. Lemongrass paste, commonly in a squeezable tube, can be found in the grocery store produce section.

Active time: 40 mins; Total time: 55 mins, plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1/3 cup (67 grams) granulated sugar

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

2 tablespoons lemongrass paste (see Where to buy)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon fine salt

1 1/4 cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1/2 cup (158 grams) pandan kaya jam (see Where to buy)

DIRECTIONS

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with silicone mats or parchment paper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a large bowl and a hand mixer, beat the butter and granulated sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes.

On medium-low speed, add the egg yolk, lemongrass paste, vanilla and salt and mix until well combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula.

Adjust the mixer to the lowest speed and gradually stir in the flour until the mixture forms a dough and there are little to no flour streaks, about 2 minutes.

Using a No. 70 disher or a scant 1-tablespoon cookie scoop, portion the dough into approximately 15-gram balls, about the size of a cherry. Roll each dough ball between the palms of your hands in a circular motion until it’s a smooth sphere. Place the rolled dough balls on the prepared pans (12 per pan), spacing them at least 2 inches apart.

Place a little bit of flour in a small bowl. Dip the back of a 1/2-teaspoon measuring spoon in the flour and tap it out just to leave a very light coating. Using the floured side of the spoon, press an indentation in the center of the dough balls, flouring the spoon as needed to prevent sticking. (You can also use your floured thumb to make divots.) To avoid cracks in the dough, make the indents as soon as possible after rolling each dough ball. If the dough feels soft or sticky or you want cookies that spread less, refrigerate them for about 15 minutes.

Transfer both pans to the oven and bake 11 to 13 minutes, or until the cookie edges are set and the bottoms are lightly browned, rotating the pans top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Cool the cookies on the sheet pans for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool for another 10 minutes.

Using a small fine-mesh strainer, lightly dust the tops of the cookies with confectioners’ sugar. Then, fill each cavity with 1 teaspoon of pandan kaya jam. Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate until needed.

Substitutions: No pandan jam? Use lemon curd instead, which will give you a zingier flavor profile.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 94 calories, 13g carbohydrates, 21mg cholesterol, 5g fat, 1g fiber, 1g protein, 3g saturated fat, 56mg sodium, 6g sugar

From Abi Balingit, author of “Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts” (Harvest, 2023) and blogger at The Dusky Kitchen.

Toong Mai Cookies

Sometime during the holiday season, a representative from the Chinese side of our family would visit and deliver white plastic containers, with peel-and-stick gift bows stuck on the lids, filled with toong mai. Toong mai, as we call it in Hawaii, is a crunchy treat made with puffed grains of rice, peanuts and grated ginger adhered together into a brick-like mass with sugar syrup. The toong mai of my youth were delicious, celebratory and, if I’m being totally honest, difficult to eat. Biting through the densely packed crunchy rice and hardened sugar was dakine - hard. Aside from the challenging eating experience, I loved everything else about toong mai. In this holiday remix cookie, toong mai meets an accompaniment of bold ingredients that stand up to its toughness. Virginia peanuts and bits of crystallized ginger surround crunchy toong mai islands in a buttery, golden dough. Behold the eating experience of my crunchy, chewy, nutty, puffed-rice-filled Hawaii girl dreams!

-Daphne Kauahi’ilani Jenkins

Toong Mai Cookies

20 servings (makes 20 cookies)

Your yield may vary depending on the size of the pieces of crumbled toong mai.

Make ahead: Freeze the scooped dough balls on sheet pans, then transfer to an airtight container for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen, adding 1 to 3 minutes to the bake time.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Where to buy: Toong mai can be found online via Sing Cheong Yuan Bakery during the holiday season and Hawaii Candy Inc. year-round. Puffed rice cakes similar to toong mai and sweet fermented rice, such as Mi Popo brand, can be found at Asian markets and online. Rice flour, preferably Erawan brand, can be found at Asian markets and well-stocked grocery stores.

Total time: 55 mins, plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

1 1/4 cups (157 grams) all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (70 grams) rice flour (see Where to buy)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

2 1/2 cups (140 grams) crumbled toong mai, no larger than 1/2-inch pieces (see Where to buy)

1/2 cup (70 grams) roasted, salted peanuts, preferably Virginia (see headnote)

3 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

2/3 cup (133 grams) granulated sugar

1/2 cup (110 grams) packed light or dark brown sugar

1 large egg

1 tablespoon sweet fermented rice (see Where to buy)

flaky sea salt, for sprinkling (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, rice flour, baking powder, salt and ground ginger.

In a large bowl, combine the crumbled toong mai, peanuts and crystallized ginger.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl if using a hand mixer, beat the butter with granulated and brown sugars on medium-high speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl once or twice. Stop the mixer, and add the egg and sweet fermented rice. Start the mixer on low speed and gradually increase to medium, mixing until combined, about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.

With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture 1 cup at a time, stopping to scrape down the bowl a few times. Mix until a thick, golden dough comes together with no streaks of flour remaining.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a flexible spatula, stir in the toong mai mixture until thoroughly combined.

Using a No. 20 disher or 1-tablespoon measure, scoop out about 3-tablespoon (45-gram) portions of dough and roll into balls. Transfer to the prepared pans, spacing about 2 inches apart.

Bake for 14 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom halfway through, or until golden on the bottom, around the edges and peaks. (The majority of each cookie will still look pale but feel firm.) Sprinkle with the flaky salt, if using. Let the cookies cool on the pans for about 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely

Nutrition | Per cookie: 192 calories, 30g carbohydrates, 22mg cholesterol, 7g fat, 2g fiber, 3g protein, 3g saturated fat, 90mg sodium, 18g sugar

From food writer Daphne Kauahi’ilani Jenkins.

Saffron and Ginger Macaroons

Coconut macaroons, not to be confused with French macarons or almond macaroons (amaretti), are usually made of just shredded coconut, egg whites and sugar. Some versions require whipped egg whites, while others include a bit of condensed milk for extra creaminess. This recipe is the easiest of the bunch - just mix and scoop. Macaroons are delicious without additional flavorings, but around the holidays I like to take my cookie game to the next level. I added saffron, crystallized ginger and ground cinnamon to my macaroon mixture. Although untraditional for macaroons, saffron and spices are often paired in Persian and Asian recipes, and they work beautifully with coconut.

-Samantha Seneviratne

Saffron and Ginger Macaroons

36 servings (makes 36 macaroons)

Storage: The cookies are best eaten fresh, but can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 1 month.

Active time: 40 mins; Total time: 1 hour 5 mins, plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup (60 milliliters) milk, any fat content or plant-based

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

4 large egg whites

3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar

1/4 cup (37 grams) minced crystallized ginger

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

12 ounces (340 grams) unsweetened shredded coconut

3 1/2 ounces (100 grams) semisweet chocolate, chopped

DIRECTIONS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, microwave the milk on HIGH until warm, about 20 seconds. Add the saffron and let steep for 10 minutes. (Alternatively, heat the milk in a small pot over medium-low heat, until warm, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the saffron and steep.)

In a large bowl, combine the egg whites and milk mixture with a flexible spatula. Stir in the sugar, ginger, salt and cinnamon until well combined. Add the coconut, stirring until well combined. Let rest for 5 minutes to hydrate the coconut, and then stir again.

Using a measuring spoon or a No. 30 disher, scoop 2-tablespoon (20-gram) portions of the dough, about the size of a ping-pong ball, onto the prepared sheets, spacing about 1 inch apart. As you scoop, gently stir the coconut mixture if it appears wetter on the bottom of the bowl.

Bake one sheet at a time, 15 to 18 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer the pans to a wire rack and let cool for 20 to 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, microwave the chocolate on HIGH in 10-second bursts, stirring often, until completely melted. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in a heatproof bowl, nestled over a pot of barely simmering water - don’t let the bottom of the bowl touch the water - whisking occasionally, until melted and smooth.) Use a fork to drizzle the chocolate over the macaroons. Refrigerate the cookies for 15 minutes, to set the chocolate, before serving.

Nutrition | Per macaroon: 99 calories, 10g carbohydrates, 0mg cholesterol, 7g fat, 2g fiber, 1g protein, 6g saturated fat, 28mg sodium, 7g sugar

From Samantha Seneviratne, author of “Bake Smart: Sweets and Secrets from My Oven to Yours” (Harvest, 2023).

Chocolate Ginger Cookies With Figs and Walnuts

This adaptable recipe is my take on a ginger-forward chocolate holiday cookie, loaded with whole-grain flavor and nutrition, and textural interest. Soft and slightly chewy from the molasses, the nutty flours pair naturally with cocoa and are an ideal canvas for rich walnuts and dark Mission figs. For even more chocolate, substitute the walnuts or figs for dark chocolate chips. Although the millet topping is optional, it adds a welcome crunch and playful appearance.

-Sarah Owens

Chocolate Ginger Cookies With Figs and Walnuts

15 servings (makes 15 three-inch cookies)

Make ahead: To freeze, place the shaped cookie dough on a lined sheet pan and freeze until solid. Once the dough is frozen, transfer to an airtight container or zip-top bag and freeze for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen, adding 3 to 5 minutes to the baking time.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks, although the cookies may turn from slightly chewy to cakelike over time. The baked cookies do not freeze well.

Where to buy: Whole-grain brown teff and spelt flours and whole millet seed can be found at health food stores or online from Camas Country Mill.

Active time: 1 hour ; Total time: 1 hour 15 mins

INGREDIENTS

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 grams) whole spelt flour

1/3 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (75 grams) whole brown teff flour

2 teaspoons pumpkin spice mix (see related recipe)

1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons (40 grams) natural unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup (220 grams) packed light brown sugar

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1/4 cup (85 grams) unsulphured molasses

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup (150 grams) packed coarsely chopped dried Mission figs

1 cup (100 grams) coarsely chopped raw walnuts

1/3 cup (45 grams) chopped crystallized ginger

1/3 cup (65 grams) millet, for topping (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the spelt flour, teff flour, pumpkin spice, ground ginger, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pepper. Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift the cocoa over and whisk to combine.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a hand mixer with a large bowl, beat the sugar and butter on medium-high speed, scraping down the bowl as necessary, until the butter lightens in color and texture, 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer running, add the eggs one at a time, beating until each is incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl. Add the molasses, grated ginger and vanilla and mix on medium until smooth and syrupy. Add the figs, walnuts and crystallized ginger and mix on low speed just to combine. Add the flour mixture in three increments, mixing on low to incorporate, or turn off the mixer and use a spatula to finish combining the dough. (If you are using a hand mixer, you may wish to switch to stirring by hand as soon as you start adding the flour.) The dough should be sticky and somewhat loose.

Using a No. 16 disher or 1/4-cup measure, divide the dough into 15 equal portions, 60 to 65 grams each. Place the portioned dough on one of the prepared sheet pans, and refrigerate until slightly firm, about 20 minutes.

If using, place the millet in a small bowl and roll the dough balls in the millet. As you work, transfer to the prepared pans, spacing them about 2 1/2 inches apart.

Bake 14 to 16 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom halfway through. When the cookies are done, they will have spread to 3 to 3 1/4 inches, with tops that are slightly cracked and just-set edges.

Remove from the oven. Let cool on the pans for 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack and let cool completely, 30 to 45 minutes.

Substitutions: Want a lower glycemic index? Use raw coconut sugar instead of brown sugar. More chocolate? Sub chocolate chips for the walnuts or figs. Nut-free? Sub chocolate chips or more figs for the walnuts.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 272 calories, 40g carbohydrates, 41mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 3g fiber, 5g protein, 5g saturated fat, 169mg sodium, 24g sugar

From culinary instructor, horticulturist and cookbook author Sarah Owens.

Vegan Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies

Growing up in the tightknit community of San Antonio, family was the comforting rhythm that underscored every beat of my life. There was one object that signified the best times were about to unfold - my mother’s well-worn red Betty Crocker cookbook, a cherished legacy from Grandma Macy. Its presence on our kitchen counter would set my heart aflutter, anticipating the baking adventure that lay ahead. In the African American community, our narratives aren’t just spoken; they’re baked, fried, stewed and roasted. The mixer’s whirring and the chocolate aroma would often transport me to the days when my Grandma Mary Lee and my mother would request their favorite oatmeal cookie recipe.

This year, as a nod to these beautiful memories, I decided to re-create their treasured oatmeal cookie, but with a twist that screams holiday cheer: rich cocoa and chunks of chocolate, embodying the perfect Christmas delight. These cookies are a culinary journey through my family’s history and my vegan baking ethos. Just as the flaxseed binds the ingredients, this recipe binds generations of love and tradition. The crisp edges give way to a chewy center, and the cocoa melds harmoniously with the oats, ensuring each bite is a trip down memory lane.

-Cara Pitts

Vegan Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies

24 servings (makes 24 cookies)

Make ahead: Refrigerate the dough for up to 1 day, but bring to room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes before scooping and baking.

Storage: Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Active time: 40 mins; Total time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour

1/4 cup (25 grams) natural unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

1 tablespoon ground flaxseed

2 tablespoons water

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) vegan butter, softened

3/4 cup (150 grams) cane sugar (may substitute granulated sugar)

1/4 cup (64 grams) unsweetened applesauce

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups (135 grams) old-fashioned rolled oats

1/2 cup (90 grams) chopped vegan chocolate or vegan chocolate chips (optional)

1/2 cup (60 grams) chopped walnuts or almonds

flaky sea salt, for garnish (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt until well combined.

To make the flax egg, in a small bowl, whisk together the ground flaxseed with the water and let rest until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or hand mixer and a large bowl, beat together the butter and sugar on medium speed until smooth and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. Add the flax egg, applesauce and vanilla, and mix on low speed, gradually increasing to medium, until thoroughly combined. Scrape down the bowl as needed. On low speed, gradually add the flour mixture, increase to medium speed and mix until thoroughly combined.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a flexible spatula, fold in the oats and chopped chocolate, if using, and nuts.

Using a No. 30 disher or 1-tablespoon measuring spoon, scoop 2-tablespoon portions of dough (35 grams) onto the prepared pans, spacing about 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with the flaky salt, if using. Bake one pan at a time, 13 to 16 minutes, or until the cookies are puffed, with a matte - not wet - top and the edges are just set. The cookies will be somewhat soft but will firm as they cool.

Cool on the sheet pans for a few minutes before transferring the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

Substitutions: Nut-free? Use more chocolate or a seed of your choice, if desired. Want a non-vegan cookie? Use 1 large egg in place of the flaxseed and water, and regular butter instead of the vegan version.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 117 calories, 15g carbohydrates, 0mg cholesterol, 6g fat, 1g fiber, 2g protein, 3g saturated fat, 90mg sodium, 7g sugar

From Cara Pitts, co-owner of Southern Roots Vegan Bakery in San Antonio.

Orange Spice Cookies

As someone who is not a huge fan of gingerbread cookies but still wants to enjoy the smells of butter and spices engulfing the kitchen on a chilly winter day, I look to these orange spice cookies. They are a tender, shortbread-style cookie, studded with flecks of orange zest and some of my favorite warming spices. Chinese five-spice is a slightly more sophisticated version of pumpkin spice. The five spices vary depending on who is making it, but you will typically find cinnamon, cloves, ginger, fennel and star anise. Extra ground ginger and the addition of cardamom takes the spice blend more into holiday baking territory and melds seamlessly with butter and sugar. The smell and flavor of these cookies makes it feel like the holidays and even reminds me of Lunar New Year, which follows a few weeks later.

While you can easily roll out the dough and cut cookies with your favorite cookie cutter, a mooncake mold takes things to the next level. The molds are essentially an intricately carved cookie press, so naturally, it’s a no-brainer to use them during the holidays. The designs in the mold make your cookies look like artful tiles. The cookies themselves are not very sweet, so a light layer of orange glaze provides a nice sugary bite and accentuates the designs of the mold.

Orange Spice Cookies

16 servings (makes 16 cookies)

Make ahead: Refrigerate the dough, well-wrapped, for up to 3 days before baking, or freeze for up to 2 months. Let the dough defrost just until malleable enough to stamp or roll out. You can also freeze the unbaked stamped or cut dough; bake straight from frozen, adding 2 to 3 minutes to the bake time.

Storage: Store the glazed cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 6 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.

Where to buy: If making stamped cookies, you will need a 75-gram mooncake mold, which can be purchased online or at Asian cookware or home goods stores.

Active time: 15 mins; Total time: 1 hour 5 mins, plus cooling time

INGREDIENTS

For the cookies

2 1/2 cups (315 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 teaspoon five-spice powder (see related recipe)

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

16 tablespoons (2 sticks/227 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from 1 orange; save the juice and more zest for the glaze)

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the glaze

2/3 cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice (may substitute blood orange juice for a pink glaze), plus more as needed

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

DIRECTIONS

Make the cookies: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, five-spice powder, cardamom, ginger and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a hand mixer and a large bowl, beat the butter, sugar and orange zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. (You can use a flexible spatula to mix by hand, as well.) Add the egg and vanilla and mix until mostly combined (it will look curdled at first but keep mixing), another 1 minute.

Add the flour mixture and mix on low just until a smooth and pliable dough forms and no dry streaks remain, about 30 seconds, taking care not to overmix. Transfer to a sheet of plastic wrap and use it to shape the dough into a 6-inch square. Transfer to the freezer until firm but not solid, about 30 minutes.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper.

Have ready a small bowl of flour or place a mound on your work surface. Divide the dough into 16 equal pieces (about 40 grams each) and roll into balls. Working with one piece at a time, dust the ball with flour and place inside the mooncake mold. Press down on the mold firmly, against the counter, and slowly release and remove the stamped cookie. Repeat with the remaining dough, transferring the stamped cookies to the sheet pan, spacing at least 1 inch apart.

If you don’t have a mooncake mold, on a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough until it is about 1/4-inch thick. If the dough is too cold and firm to roll out, allow it to soften on the counter for a few minutes. Cut out 2 1/2-inch round or square cookies with a cookie cutter or knife, and knead and roll out the scraps to cut more cookies, spacing these at least 1 inch apart on the baking sheet.

Bake 17 to 19 minutes, or until the edges are lightly golden brown. Allow the cookies to cool on the sheet pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Make the glaze: Once the cookies are cool, in a small shallow bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and orange juice until smooth and runny. To test the consistency of the glaze, dip a cookie into it or use a small pastry brush to paint the cookies. You will have reached the right consistency when glaze stays on the stamped cookie without obscuring its pattern. If the glaze runs off and you can see too much of the cookie under it, the glaze is too thin. If it’s too thick, add 1 teaspoon of orange juice; if it is too thin, add an additional 1 to 2 teaspoons of confectioners’ sugar. (If making simple cutout, flat cookies, the glaze consistency is less temperamental.) Dip or paint the remaining cookies in the glaze and allow any excess to run off. Transfer back to a wire rack set over a sheet pan and top with flecks of orange zest.

Nutrition | Per cookie: 217 calories, 25g carbohydrates, 42mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 1g fiber, 3g protein, 7g saturated fat, 44mg sodium, 10g sugar

From food writer Kristina Cho, author of “Mooncakes and Milk Bread” (Harper Celebrate, 2021) and blogger at Eat Cho Food.