Palaces, pastries and visions of empire in Vienna

No visitor to Vienna can escape the outsized influence of Emperor Franz Joseph I. There are palaces, buildings and monuments everywhere in the Austrian capital. Many of them were built during his 68-year reign, the longest in Austrian history.

Franz Joseph died 100 years ago this year. During his reign, he was absolute ruler of Austria, Hungary, Croatia and Bohemia. But in Vienna, they're showing off some of the ruler's more elaborate trappings, along with those of his beloved Empress, Elizabeth, or "Sisi."

Pro tip: Make sure you've got some good walking shoes. Even though Vienna's transit system is crisp and efficient, the best way to see the palaces, the museums and the rest of the city is on foot.

If you arrive by train, be prepared for a glitzy welcome. The main terminal, or "Hauptbahnhof" was opened in 2014 and features more than 90 shops and restaurants. There's a tourist information booth and comfortable seating throughout the station, plus escalators to take you up to the train platforms.

The Hauptbahnhof has connections to the airport, as well as to subway, bus and tram lines. We got a 72-hour "Vienna Card," which features free local transit, plus discounts of 5 to 25 percent at select museums, shops, restaurants and tours throughout the city. The cost for a 48-hour card is about $24, or about $28 for three days.

After getting our card, we took the subway to a stop near our hotel on the Ringstrasse or "ring road." The ring road was constructed after Franz Joseph ordered the city walls and moats destroyed in 1857. The result is a grand boulevard lined with trees that goes all the way around the city.

Our hotel, the Grand Ferdinand, was originally built as an office in the 1950s. Now, the high-ceiling offices have been reconfigured into stylish rooms with top-down rain-shower heads, glass blocks for accents and comfy beds. I think the highlight is the rooftop pool. That's also where they serve a delicious breakfast buffet each morning, complete with a breathtaking view of the city. King rooms are available in July and August for about $180 a night. However, the hotel also offers shared accommodations (dormitory style) for as little as $34 per night through Airbnb. The dorms are finished in dark mahogany and include free Wi-Fi, personal lockers, rainfall showers and access to the rooftop pool and restaurant.

Vienna boasts plenty of parks and open spaces. More than half of the metro area is made up of green spaces, including "The Prater." Originally a royal hunting preserve, the 1,480-acre park opened to the public in 1766. In 1897, to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Franz Joseph's reign, a giant Ferris wheel was constructed in the park. With its large cabins and ornate finish, the Ferris wheel has been a landmark ever since. From your spot in the 20-passenger cabin, you can look over the lush Prater park with its jogging trails, lake, golf course and horse track.

The large amounts of green spaces in Vienna is one reason the Austrian capital has been ranked by Mercer as having the highest "quality of living" in the world in 2016. Other factors include public transportation, political, social and economic climate.

The coffee in Vienna is delicious, that's for sure. It's even better with a pastry. Our guide, Alexa Brauner, took us to one of Vienna's classic pastry shops, Demel. First opened in 1786 near the Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, Demel was an official "Purveyor to the Imperial and Royal Court." In fact, Empress Sisi was a big fan of Demel's candied violets. Walking past the counter on the way to our table, I felt anxious at having to choose: tortes, chocolates, cakes or all of the above. I settled on a slice of the apple strudel. The pastry was so light and flaky — it was probably wasted on me. But it was delicious with my espresso!

"Cafe Society" is changing in Vienna, though. "Supersense," one of the newer cafes, is one third cafe, one third recording studio and one third concept store. Visitors are encouraged to order coffee up front, then check out the printing press, the vinyl records for sale and the selection of treats from small producers. Even Anchorage coffee snobs will not be left wanting at this cafe.

You have to have euros to buy drinks at Supersense (no credit cards). The good news is the dollar is stronger than ever. The bad news is that U.S. goods are even more expensive for Europeans. Right now, a euro is worth about $1.10. Back in 2014, it was closer to $1.40. From an exchange perspective, it's a great time to visit the Eurozone.

There are plenty of Wi-Fi hotspots around town at hotels and restaurants. But having a local SIM card is handy for using Google Maps and accessing your apps and mail on the fly. I bought a SIM card from an A1 shop at a downtown mall. For 10 euros, the card included 1,000 minutes of local talk time, 1,000 messages and 2GB of data for 30 days. Make sure your phone is "unlocked" or you won't be able to swap your SIM card.

Speaking of money — the Habsburgs (Franz Joseph's family) had it. Lots of it. And they spent the money on huge palaces crammed with art. And the buildings themselves are works of art. Just inside the Ringstrasse is the "Museum Quarter," which includes the Hofburg, the Art History Museum ("Kunsthistorisches"), the "Sisi Museum" honoring the Empress Elizabeth and the Leopold Museum.

Choose your museums carefully, since they are big and there is lots to see. For example, in the Art History Museum you'll find major works by Raphael, Vermeer, Rubens, Rembrandt and others. Also, the central atrium of the museum features an incredible restaurant.

The Sisi Museum inside the Hofburg features an incredible display of the palace furnishings, including china, table settings and seasonal displays. Again, you have to keep a measured pace or you could spend all morning gawking at the gold and silver table settings! Empress Sisi was a very popular figure during Franz Joseph's rule. She traveled extensively, although she suffered from depression, particularly after her son's suicide. Ultimately, she was assassinated while traveling in Geneva.

Try one of Vienna's favorite snacks-to-go: sausage. Bitzinger has a couple of hot dog stands: one by the Opera House and one by the giant Ferris wheel at The Prater. They cut off the end of a roll and hollow it out. Then in goes the sausage, along with any cheese or mustard. We came back for seconds, particularly since the stand we went to served beer!

Although the Belvedere Palace is now centrally located between the Hofburg and the train station, it was outside of the city when it was built between 1712 and 1718. The structure includes both the upper and lower palaces. The palaces were built by Prince Eugene of Savoy as a summer home. Prince Eugene was the commander and chief of the Imperial Army, profiting handsomely from the wars with the Ottoman Empire.

The upper palace now holds an incredible art collection, including a large collection of Gustav Klimt, one of Austria's most famous painters. The palaces themselves will take your breath away — save time to swoon at the architecture. The gardens between the upper and lower palaces are extensive. Frankly, we ran out of steam after going through the art collections in the upper palace.

We only had a couple of days in Vienna. Now we have a list of the places to visit next time. That list includes the Schonbrunn Palace, built in the 1740s. This was the Empress Sisi's summer palace, located just outside the downtown core. With 1,441 rooms, a zoo, a maze and a tea garden, Schonbrunn is one of the most important architectural structures in the country.

At the State Opera House, there's a 50-foot screen set up so you can stroll by and see part of the opera that's playing inside. Now, I want to go to the opera, even though I'll have to dress up!

We started and ended our European trip in Prague, which was just four hours away by train. The Railjet high-speed trains are clean, roomy and affordable. Our second-class tickets were only about $39 each.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. You can follow him on Twitter (@alaskatravelGRM) and alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.